Lake Ashi between forested hills, with Mount Fuji on the horizon and Hakone Shrine's red torii at the water's edge

Japan city guide

Hakone

Lake Ashi, ropeways and an onsen overnight, a short train ride west of Tokyo.

Hakone is the onsen and mountain overnight we would add to a Tokyo start, about a short train journey west of the capital. One or two nights is enough for Lake Ashi, a ropeway hour and a soak. Fuji views are a bonus, not a guarantee.

By Tripnook editorial. Researched from official tourism and transport sources; prices checked 14 November 2026 (Australia/Sydney). Other costs are approximate estimates, not a booking quote.

Is Hakone the right overnight from Tokyo?

Hakone is a mountain escape used by Tokyo residents as much as by visitors: hot-spring inns, the Hakone Ropeway, and, on a clear day, Mount Fuji over Lake Ashi. Best months in our existing guide were October and November, then April and May. A stay of one to three days is the usual plan.

It suits travellers who want an onsen night, a slower day after Tokyo, and a first look at Fuji if the weather is kind. Think twice if you only have two or three days in Japan in total (spend them in the city), or if you need a guaranteed Fuji photograph. For a dedicated lake-view stay, also read Mount Fuji.

Steam rising from the volcanic slopes of Owakudani below Mount Kanmuri, with a dusting of snow
Photo: そらみみ, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

What does Hakone actually cost?

A ryokan night is often the point of coming, so a Hakone stay usually sits above a simple backpacker daily range. Use the Tokyo or First-Time Japan daily ranges for transit days, and treat a proper onsen night as a one-off spike above those ranges. Check current room rates on the hotel search. Official Hakone Freepass prices, from 1 October 2025, are in the sourced table below.

What should I book first?

  • Flights: into Tokyo, then a train toward Hakone-Yumoto.
  • Hotels and ryokan: book early, especially on autumn weekends and public holidays. A room with a private bath avoids the tattoo rules that still apply in some shared onsens.
  • Experiences: the ropeway and lake cruise can queue in peak weeks. A Freepass, if you use one, should be checked on the official Odakyu pages.
  • Car hire: possible but not required. Trains, buses and the ropeway cover the usual loop.

When should I go, and what should I do?

Autumn is the most comfortable, with clearer Fuji views than midsummer. Weekdays are kinder than weekends. Walk a section of the old Tokaido if you want a quieter hour, and do not force every stop on the tourist circuit in a single day.

Where should I go next?

Continue to Kawaguchiko if you want a second mountain night and a better chance at the classic lake view, or return to Tokyo and take the Shinkansen to Kyoto. This is the onsen link in the Japan journey:

Hakone is the onsen night in the 10 and 14-day routes in our 7, 10 and 14-day Japan itineraries.

Is there a useful official video for this place?

Video: Hakone without a car: an autumn day by public transport (Hakone Navi official)

How do I get there from Australia or elsewhere?

The official airline and airport notes, including Qantas, ANA and JAL’s current winter timetable, are in the First-Time Japan guide and in the sourced table on this page where they apply. Flying times are not quoted here; check the airline site for current durations when you book.

Hakone is reached from Tokyo, not on a direct international flight. Fly into Haneda or Narita, then use the train toward Odawara or Hakone-Yumoto.

Where should I stay in Hakone?

Hakone-Yumoto is the transport gateway, with more ordinary hotels and an easy hop back toward Odawara and Tokyo. Gora and the hillside inns are the usual place for a ryokan and a proper onsen, often with dinner included. The Lake Ashi shore is the view stay, when the weather is kind. If a private bath matters, say so when you book, especially if you have tattoos. Room rates move with weekends and foliage; check live rates for your dates rather than relying on a typical price.

How do I get around once I arrive?

A stored-value IC card is the simplest way to ride trains and buses, and to pay at many convenience stores. Official Welcome Suica and visitor ICOCA prices are in the First-Time Japan guide and, where they apply, in the sourced table on this page. Yen figures below were last checked 14 November 2026; Australian dollar conversions are approx.

The official Hakone Freepass, sold by Odakyu and listed on Hakone Navi, covers listed trains, buses, the cable car, ropeway and lake boat for two or three days, plus a return on the Odakyu line from the station you buy it from. From 1 October 2025, official adult prices include 7,100 yen (approx. A$65) for two days and 7,500 yen (approx. A$69) for three days from Shinjuku, or 6,000 yen (approx. A$55) and 6,400 yen (approx. A$59) from Odawara. Child prices are listed on the same table. A Romancecar limited express needs a separate fare. Source: Hakone Navi, Hakone Freepass.

What does a one or two night Hakone plan look like?

This is a sample outline. Weather can stop the ropeway, so have a bath and a shorter loop in mind.

Arrival day. Ride in from Tokyo, check in, and take an onsen that evening rather than trying to finish the whole sightseeing loop. Full day. Use the official loop (train, cable car, ropeway, lake) if the weather is stable, and stop when it is not. Fuji views are a bonus. If you have a second night, spend it walking a quieter stretch or riding only the part of the loop you missed. Then continue to Kawaguchiko or back to Tokyo, or west toward Kyoto.

What is Hakone like to eat?

If you stay in a ryokan, dinner and breakfast are often part of the room rate, and that meal is one reason people come. In the towns, you will find noodles, cakes and ordinary cafe food between sightseeing stops. A black egg at Owakudani is a souvenir more than a meal. We are not attributing any health effect to the springs or the food.

What etiquette should I actually bother with?

A little goes a long way. Say sumimasen and arigatou, take your shoes off when you see a step or a rack, and keep phone calls off quiet train carriages. At shrines and temples, follow the posted path and do not block the offering box for a photo. Cash is still useful for small places. Tattoos can be an issue in some public baths; ask when you book, or choose a room with a private bath.

Wash before you get into an onsen, tie up hair, and do not put a towel in the water. If you have tattoos, say so when you book. A private bath avoids most of the awkwardness.

What mistakes do first-time visitors make?

The usual ones are packing the days too tightly, buying a nationwide rail pass without doing the maths, and arriving without a way to pay for a train. Get the IC card or pass sorted on day one. People also underestimate summer heat and leave a mountain night or Hiroshima as a maybe that never happens. Book the rooms that will sell out, and leave some afternoons unplanned.

In Hakone, the special mistake is treating the loop as a race, then being disappointed if cloud hides Fuji or if a section is closed. The bath is the point.

How do I book flights and hotels?

Hakone is reached from Tokyo, so the flight search is set to Tokyo (TYO). Search links below open Aviasales with a departure city near you (Sydney if we cannot tell), and Trip.com’s hotel search for your region. These are starting points, not quotes.

Some links on this page are affiliate links (marked as sponsored). If you book through them, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Affiliate links do not change the price you pay. Depending on where you browse from, a link may open a nearby departure city or Trip.com’s site for your region, with the same partner tracking. See our affiliate disclosure.

Which figures have been checked against official sources?

Yen amounts below are as published on the official pages, last checked 14 November 2026. Australian dollar figures are approx. conversions using the ECB reference rate via Frankfurter on 13 November 2026 (1 AUD = 108.56 JPY). They are estimates, not a ticket price.

ItemOfficial figureSource
Japan Rail Pass, ordinary adult, official online purchase7-day 50,000 yen (approx. A$461); 14-day 80,000 yen (approx. A$737)JR Group, Japan Rail Pass types and prices
Qantas published Australia-Japan routes (no airborne times quoted)Direct: Tokyo Haneda-Sydney; Tokyo Narita-Brisbane; Tokyo Narita-Melbourne. Seasonal Sapporo-Sydney from 7 December 2026 to 31 March 2027. No direct Japan-Perth service listed on this page.Qantas, international flight routes
ANA published Australia routes, 25 October 2026 to 27 March 2027Daily Haneda-Sydney (NH879/889 and NH880/890) and daily Narita-Perth (NH881/882).ANA, international route information
Welcome Suica, official visitor IC card (JR East)No deposit. Opening balance from 1,000 yen (approx. A$9.21) to 10,000 yen (approx. A$92). Valid 28 days from the date of purchase, including that day. Remaining credit is not refundable.JR East, Welcome Suica purchase
Hakone Freepass, official adult prices from 1 October 2025From Shinjuku: 2-day 7,100 yen (approx. A$65), 3-day 7,500 yen (approx. A$69). From Odawara: 2-day 6,000 yen (approx. A$55), 3-day 6,400 yen (approx. A$59). Romancecar limited express is extra.Hakone Navi, Hakone Freepass

Frequently asked questions

How many nights should I spend in Hakone?

One night is the usual add-on to Tokyo. Two nights is better if you want a slower onsen stay and a spare morning for weather.

Will I see Mount Fuji from Hakone?

Only if the air is clear. Autumn and winter mornings are the usual bet. If the view is the main point, stay near Kawaguchiko and keep your plans flexible.

Can I visit Hakone as a day trip?

Yes, but you will spend a large part of the day on trains and queues. An overnight is the calmer way to do it.

Are tattoos allowed in onsens?

Rules vary. Some public baths still refuse visible tattoos. A ryokan with a private bath is the simple workaround. Ask when you book.

Do I need a car?

No, not for the standard Hakone loop.

Is the Hakone Freepass worth it?

If you will ride several parts of the official loop, it is often simpler than buying each ticket. Official adult prices from Shinjuku start at 7,100 yen for two days from 1 October 2025. A Romancecar ride is extra. Check closures before you go.

Can I do Hakone as a day trip from Tokyo?

Yes, and many people do. An overnight is calmer, because you can take the onsen in the evening and you are not racing the last train. If a section of the loop is closed, a day trip feels even tighter.

Photo credits